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Hele Mai with Auntie Lele
`Anaeho`omalu, He Wahi Pana o
Kona - A Famous Place of Kona
by Leilehua Yuen
At the north end of the district of Kona, the
village, bay, and development
area of `Anaeho`omalu are famed for their petroglyphs, which cover huge
portions of the rolling lava fields. Many more petroglyphs are likely
hidden
under the sands and waves of the shoreline.
In ancient times the area's name was considered
simple and descriptive.
Today, many people consider it unpronouncable! Perhaps this will help:
The
`anae, pronounced "ah nah-ay," is the full-sized mullet,
delicious and
prized by royalty and commoners. It is especially tasty soaked in
coconut
milk and baked in the imu.Ho`omalu, pronounced "hoh oh mah
loo," is to care
for, protect, restrict, or confine. So `Anae - ho`omalu, "ah nah-ay
hoh oh
mah loo," is the place where the mullet are kept and raised to full
size.
The mullet pond where these piscine treats were confined still exists.
Today `Anaeho`omalu is a famous resort
area, but in ancient times it was
renowned not only as a producer of excellent mullet, but as the place of
a
great battle.
In the 10th or 11th century, somewhere
around the time the Normans were
busy conquoring England, a battle took place at `Anaeho`omalu which
helped
to solidify the Pili line of chiefs as the rulers of Hawai`i. The Pili
chiefs were relative newcomers to the Hawaiian islands, but in several
districts had supplanted the older Nanaulu line of chiefs. At the time
of
our story, Kohala was ruled by Kanipahu, of Pili lineage who also was
acknowledged as titular high chief of the island. Ka`u was ruled by
Kama`iole, of Nanaulu lineage. Kama`iole had a beautiful sister, Iola.
Travel to other districts was a popular
passtime among Hawai`i's nobility.
Chiefs, with their retainers, would set sail or hike, and go about
sightseeing, holoholo, or visiting, kipa hele. One day Waikuku, a
retainer
and younger relative of Kanipahu, went kipa hele to Ka`u. While visiting
the
court of Kama`iole, he met and fell in love with Iola. When Waikuku
returned
to Kohala, Iola went with him as his wife. However, the happy couple
neglected to tell Iola's brother and chief. Kama`iole had planned for
his
sister to marry a chief of the old Nanaulu line, not for her to produce
heirs for the Pili chiefs.
Upon realising his sister was gone,
Kama`iole sent runners out to all
districts seeking news of her. At last word came, she had been seen at
the
court of Kanipahu of Kohala. Kama`iole set out for the northern
district. He
quickly found Iola, now pregnant, among the other chiefesses.
Alerted by
the screams of the women, Waikuku came running, but it was too late.
Iola
lay motionless on the ground and Kama`iole's spear tip dripped with her
blood.
Stunned, the gathering crowd watched
Kama`iole turn and stride toward
Kanipahu's personal dwelling, his hale. They recovered their senses and,
clamoring, ran after him. Coming before Kanipahu, Kama`iole demanded the
right to challenge Waikuku in a duel of honor. A time was set and the
two
chiefs fought. Waikuku, although a warrior of chiefly rank, was of a
lower
ranking family branch than his ruling relative. Kama`iole was descended
from
the ancient ruling chiefs and schooled not only in combat, but strategy
and
all of the other chiefly arts. Soon Waikuku was pinned to the ground and
his
opponant prepared to deliver the mortal blow. But, no! Kanipahu ordered
the
contest to stop, and for Waikuku to be spared. Kama`iole's dagger
continued
its plunge.
Appalled, Kanipahu's personal guard
leaped to grab Kama`iole, but the Ka`u
chief escaped, ran to the shore where his retainers waited with his
great
red-painted wa`a kaulua, and leaped on board the double-hulled canoe.
Paddling strongly, for these were men trained in the heavy waters
off Ka
Lae, now often called South Point, Kama`iole was soon far out to sea and
headed home.
As soon as he reached home, Kama`iole
sent word to all of the Nanaulu
chiefs. That word was "Revolution!" He soon had an army
comprising warriors
of Hilo, Puna, Ka`u, and Kona. Only Hamakua, a traditional ally of
Kohala,
did not join the coalition.
The sparsely populated districts of
Kohala and Hamakua were unable to raise
an army to fight the massed forces of the other four districts.
Unknown to Kama`iole, Iola had lived.
Young and strong, she had healed well
and given birth to a duaghter, Makeamalamaihanae. Kanipahu sent her, the
infant, and his young sons to the valley of Waimanu under the protection
of
a trusted friend who was a chief of Hamakua.
Kanipahu and his forces were badly
beaten. They dispersed into the rugged
mountains and valleys of Kohala and Hamakua. Kanipahu himself fled to
Moloka`i where he became a farmer at Kalae.
For eighteen years he labored in the
fields and taro patches. Trying to
hide his chiefly height from his maka`ainana neighbors, he walked
hunched
over and stooped. To convince them he was used to the hard life of a
farmer,
he worked hard from sunup to sundown, always without complaint. To show
that
he was humble and unused to royal prerogative, he always offered the
best he
had to visitors and travelers. He kept to himself and spoke little, but
was
always helpful and cheerful. Twice, when raiders from Maui invaded, he
took
up his long-unused arms and fought so well that all were astonished. His
neighbors decided that he must have been a warrior in the service of
some
chief, if not a chief. They came to love this large and gentle
hunchback.
During these eighteen years, Kama`iole
consolidated his rule. He was cruel,
selfish, and arrogant, over-taxing the people and keeping the land in
constant turmoil. But his training in strategy and the other chiefly
arts,
including intrigue and deception, allowed him to consolidate the six
districts of Hawai`i into one true kingdom, becoming Ruling Chief of the
entire island in fact as well as title. But despite consolidation, the
turmoil grew.
Kama`iole had tried to restore the
ancient apportionments of land, as they
had been under the Nanaulu line, not as reapportioned by the Pili
chiefs.
But his high-handed tactics created growing resentment among many of the
nobility who found their lands diminished, and caused confusion among
the
maka`ainana, who sometimes found themselves under the rule of first one
chief, than another, then another, each extracting taxes at whim.
Instead of
allowing the simple religion of the earlier people and the temple
religion
of the Pa`ao line to coexist, religious disputes were fanned.
At last the people, failing to receive
justice from the ruling chiefs,
appealed to the priests. And the priests, traveling in secret to
Moloka`i,
appealed to Kanipahu.
Wistfully, Kanipahu refused. After almost
twenty years, his back was
hunched forever. A ti-leaf cape served to cover it.
With such a stoop, how could he stand tall in
the royal feather cloak and
command men in battle? His hands were twisted and scarred, able to hold
the
short heavy `o`o of a farmer, but not the slim light ihe of the warrior.
He
looked down at himself, skin stained red with the soil of Moloka`i. No,
he
was no longer a chief. He was, indeed, a farmer.
The kahuna bowed their heads in grief.
"Go to Waimanu." Kanipahu told
them.
When they looked up, he explained that
his sons were hidden there. Men now,
his messengers had brought word they were fully trained. The eldest,
Kalapana, would lead them. Agreeing, the kahuna left for Hamakua.
While some of the kahuna headed for
Waimanu to meet and counsel Kalapana,
others returned to their districts and secretly built support for this
new
revolution. At last, all was ready. With his armies slipping quietly
into
Kohala, like rivulets through the canyons of the district, Kalapana
appeared
like a flashflood, surprising Kama`iole.
Kama`iole called upon his allies, but
this time, distracted by strife in
their own districts, they were slow to respond. With support for
Kalapana
rising like floodwater in Kohala and Hamakua, Kama`iole's kahuna advised
him
to fall back to Kona to await aid from the other chiefs. Kama`iole chose
`Anaeho`omalu.
There, his 8,000 warriors would have
fresh fish and brackish water while
they waited for battle. Kalapana, young and untried, would have to lead
his
men across the sun-baked lava flats, packing food and water, as well as
their battle gear, in a two-day forced march. Advised by his father's
war
chiefs who, themselves, were spurred by eighteen years of frustration,
the
army crossed the flats ready for war.
Traveling with the many of the warriors
were their wives. Chiefly women
were trained in warfare and strategy, both as aids to their husbands,
and as
lines of last defense. Makea, the daughter of Iola and Waikuku went as
the
wife of Kalapana.
Ahead of the army, Kuka`ilimoku traveled,
the fearsome war god of the Pili
family. One day it would lead the armies of Liloa, then `Umi, then
Kamehameha Pai`ea and at the last, Kekuaokalani and Manono.
While he was waiting, Kama`iole of Ka`u,
a somewhat flat and stoney
district, had his army build stonework fortifications. He had positioned
his
army so that a ravine protected its right flank. Having his warriors
take
their positions behind the rampart, Kama`iole himself went to most
exposed
part of his defences and waited for the assault
Two assaults were repulsed by Kama`iole.
Though the stone wall was leveled
in places, men filled the gaps and the defense held. Kalapana fell back
and
rallied his offensive forces. He ordered his reserves, reared amongst
the
crags and ravines of the rugged Hamakua coast, to make a rapid two mile
march and slip down into the ravine which Kama`iole relied on for
protection. Meanwhile, Kalapana distracted Kama`iole with constant
skirmishes along the front lines.
At last Kalapana saw the spear tips of
his reserves in the distance.
Kama`iole was now trapped between a frontal assault and the reserves.
Kama`iole, experienced war chief that he
was, regrouped his men to meet
both assaults. All knew they were in a battle of desperation, for it was
unlikely that any would be allowed to leave the field alive. Kama`iole
charged from weak spot to weak spot, like a shark slashing through
schools
of smaller fish. No one could withstand him.
Suddenly, from the ranks of the common
warriors, an old man stepped
forward. Stooped and white haired, he still swung his war club with
strength. He drove directly for Kama`iole. He parried the war chief's
spear
and then aimed for his head. Down Kama`iole fell, onto the hard, hot
lava of
`Anaeho`omalu.
A wave of the battle surged over the
fallen chief. The old man, who had
spent his strength in that blow, was weakening. Kalapana fought through
to
the spot. Faced by the younger, fresher warriors, and disspirited by the
loss of their chief and many of their companions, the survivors began to
flee.
Kalapana and his father faced each other
across the dying Kama`iole. A
kahuna arrived, carrying Kuka`ilimoku, and recognizing his old chief,
fell
to his knees. Makea, who had gone for water to refresh her husband,
retrned
to her husband's side.
Makea may have been reared as a healer,
for legend says that her
instinctive reaction to the sight of the dying Kama`iole was to give him
water and wash his wounds. Or perhaps she felt blood call to blood, as
the
dying chief was her uncle. When the cool water touched his lips, he
opened
his eyes and called out to her mother. Kalapana gently told him who she
was.
Convulsively, he reached for her, and was gone.
Kanipahu returned to Moloka`i and lived
out his remaining days peacefully
as a farmer.
Kalapana was decreed high chief of the
island of Hawai`i. He strove to
create peace throughout the land. Makea, in whom the ancient Nanaulu and
the
new Pili chiefly lines were blended, was his loving advisor and friend.
From
them is descended Pai`ea Kamehameha, who united all of our islands under
one
rule.
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