Na Lei o Hawai`i
The
Flower Garlands of Hawai`i
Instructor Leilehua Yuen
learned lei making from her
grandmother, Thelma Yuen, during summers and weekends spent at Kehena in
Puna on ka Moku Hawai`i. See the
Classes page
for information about instruction in lei making and other
Hawaiian crafts.
Lei are an instantly recognizable symbol of Hawai`i. The wreaths of
flowers and foliage worn by both men and women add fragrance and beauty
to island life. Not all lei are made from flowers. A special song
composed for a loved one can be a lei. But all of them are a tangible
expression of aloha, and as such are given to show love, joy, or
sympathy, and as greetings and farewells.
In modern times, a lei is often given with a kiss. The story goes:
During World War II, a hula dancer at one of the USO clubs was dared by
her girlfriends to kiss a handsome young officer. She met the challenge
by going up to him and giving him her lei, saying, "It is our
custom to give a kiss with a lei." Thus a new "ancient"
custom was born.
In ancient times, however, a lei was never placed over a person's head
and given with a kiss - pleasant as that modern tradition is. To
"na po`e kahiko", the people of olden times, the head was
sacred. People did not put their hands or arms above another's head. A
lei was carefull wrapped in a special container, often made of fresh ti
leaves, and handed to the recipient. If the lei was for a very high
ranking ali`i, then the lei would be handed to a retainer to give the
ali`i.
Making Lei
Halau
Hula Na Mohala Hala`i dancer/haumana Yoshi picks `a`ali`i seed capsules to
fashion into the lei he will wear to dance He Moku Ka Ula. `A`ali`i,
because of it's tenacity and endurance and its ability to withstand strong
winds, is often incorporated into lei for dances which depict battles, or
call on additional strength. It's beautiful red, orange, and yellow colors
also are reminiscint of the colors of a sunset, so it also is prized lei
of that theme.
Haumana
hula Naoko, visitng from Japan, picks liko lehua for
the lei she will wear to dance Ke Ao Nani. Liko, the budding
branch tips, are symbolic of regeration and re-growth. Thus they are often
used in hula honoring children. They also symbolize growing into
wisdom.
The halau took a field trip up the Saddle Road to pick
their foliage to make lei for the annual Volcano race at which they
danced.
The
"stuff" of lei making - a completed lei haku in the
foreground. `A`ali`i, liko, la`i, palai, and other materials wait on the
table to be fashioned into lei.
Na haumana (l-r) Anela, Naoko, and Yoshi
in Kumu's back yard as they prepare la`i
for weaving lei haku. Lei haku are made by braiding in three ply and
carefully inserting the foliage into each wrap as the braid is formed.
Yoshi
and Leilehua make lei hilo (twisted two-ply ti leaf lei) from la`i harvested in
Kumu's back yard.
Naoko
and her finished lei haku incorporating liko lehua, `a`ali`i, palai,
kupukupu, and moa.
Island Lei and Colors
Back in in the days when Hawai`i was a territory, the county leaders
decided that in order to make pagentry (a big tourist draw) more
colorful and appealing, the different islands should be distinguished by
different lei and colors. This would make parades, festivals, and
pagents more interesting and colorful, they felt. It seems to have
worked. The most eagerly awaited sections of any Hawaiian parade are the
pa`u princesses, each decked out in the colors and lei representing her
island, astride her flower-caparisoned horse, with her matching
outriders and pages.
-
Hawai`i - Lei Lehua, red
-
Maui - Lei Lokelani, pink
-
Kaho`olawe - Lei Hinahina, silver
-
Lana`i - Lei Kauna`oa, orange
-
Moloka`i - Lei Kukui, green
-
O`ahu - Lei Ilima, golden yellow
-
Kaua`i - Lei Mokihana, purple
-
Ni`ihau - Lei Pupu o Ni`ihau, white
A Glossary of Lei
Terms
haku - three-ply braid. A method of making a lei by using a
base material, such as soft la`i, and braiding it while adding the
decorative plant material into each wrap of the braid. Lei laukukui and
lei laua`e are typically made with this method.
hili - braid or plait. A method of making a lei by braiding
together only one kind of material. Lei palapalai and lei kauna`oa often
are made using this style.
hilo - twist, double helix, intertwine. A method of making a
lei by twisting two strands together to form a rope. The popular and
simple lei la`i (ti leaf lei) is made using this method. It also is
another method of making the lei kauna`oa.
hipu`u - a method of making a lei by knotting the stems of the
decorative plant material and stringing the next stem through the knot.
It requires a very long stem on the decorative material. Some lei
laukukui and lei laupohuehue are made with this method. (Same as nipu`u)
humu, humuhumu - sew to a backing, basting stitch. A method of
making a lei by sewing the decorative material to a backing such as
lauhala, paper, or felt. Lei bouganvilla and feather hat lei often are
made with this method.
kui - pierce, piercing stitch. A method of making a lei by
sewing or piercing the decorative material with a needle and stringing
it onto a thread.
la`i - leaf of the ti plant.
lei papale - any lei worn on a hat.
lei po`o - any lei worn on the head.
nipu`u - a method of making a lei by knotting the stems of the
plant material. (See hipu`u)
papale - hat.
po`o - head.
wili - wind, twist, crank, coil. A corkscrew-type twist - as
found in Porky Pig's tail and the seed pod of the wili-wili. A method of
making a lei by winding a string around successive short lengths of the
decorative material. Somethimes a base material such as lauhala, a thick
raffia braid, etc. is used to make wrapping easier.
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