Liliʻuokalani at Kīlauea

USGS image

No, Liliʻuokalani did not start the custom of tossing gin into Kīlauea. That was Mr. George Lycurgus, some years later. Following is a description of her visit to Kīlauea in 1800, when she was still Princess, extracted from her autobiography, Hawaiʻi’s Story by Hawaiʻi’s Queen.

Chapter XI
Mauna Loa

IN the year 1880 Miss Helen Aldrich of Berkeley, Cal., made me a visit. She was the daughter of Mr. W. A. Aldrich, a banker, who had married a first cousin of my husband, Elizabeth, the child of Mr. R. W. Holt. Shortly after her arrival we took a trip to the largest of our islands, Hawaii, on which is situated that volcano called with truth one of the greatest natural wonders of the modern world.

I was attended by my retainers, and after a short and pleasant voyage we arrived at the port and chief city, Hilo. As though to illuminate in honor of my visit, on the night preceding our ascent of the mountain a bright glow was seen on the top of Mokuaweoweo. This was the portent which preceded that great flow of lava which soon commenced from Mauna Loa, and took its course down the sides of that mountain towards the city of Hilo. We were thus witnesses from the very beginning of one of the most extensive and long-continued eruptions which has ever been recorded in history, for it was protracted over a period of eleven months.

Early on the morning following we started on horseback on our journey to the crater of Kilauea, where we arrived about five o’clock the same evening. This is not, as some strangers suppose, a mountain by itself, totally distinct from the general volcanic system of Mauna Loa. That word in our language signifies the great long mountain, and the nature of the elevation well deserves the term; for in height, 13,700 feet, it is exceeded by few in the world, while in extent it includes about one-third of our largest island.

The eruptions are not usually from the summit, but generally through fissures in its sides. One of these is the crater lake of Kilauea, a region of perpetual fire, of an activity more or less pronounced, yet never entirely extinct, and situated some twenty miles or so east from the summit, at an elevation of about four thousand feet. It is one of the few, if not the only one, of the volcanoes in the world which can be visited at the periods of its greatest displays without the least danger to the observer; because it is always possible to watch its bubbling fires from a higher point than their source. It is not the lava from the burning lake which makes its way down the mountain, but that from other places where the concealed fires of Mauna Loa burst forth.

There is now a modern hotel at a spot commanding a good view of the points of interest; but at the date of this visit we were received and made very comfortable in a large grass house with thatched roof, under which some forty persons could have been accommodated. Here we were most hospitably received, our tired horses were cared for and sheltered near to our resting-place, and we did ample justice to the evening meal which had been provided for our company.

After our refreshment, darkness quickly succeeded the setting of the sun (there being no long twilight, as in more northern climates); so we spent the evening in watching the fiery glow in the crater, the brilliance of which seemed to be spreading along the level floor of the pit. From a flooring of light and heat the surface changed at times to billows of actual fire; then jets burst up or fountains played high in air, standing by themselves a moment like burning columns; then steam intervened to stifle the flames. Mist following this, the crater was for a while hidden from our sight, and nature’s gorgeous fireworks suspended.

At one of these intervals we retired for the night; but at two o’clock we were all awakened by our host to see an exhibition such as has seldom been furnished for the inspection of any of the many tourists who visit that region. This was a most brilliant illumination at the summit of Mauna Loa itself; and far from lessening, its manifestation seemed to render more vivid, the fires of the crater of Kilauea. The mists had cleared away in that direction, and we thus had the good fortune to watch on one and the same occasion the outbursts of light at the summit and the jets of dancing flame in the sides. It was a night never to be forgotten by any of our party, and well worth the time and labor of the journey, were there no more to be enjoyed. That which was nearest to us, the rising, boiling sheet of liquid fire, seemed to show no abatement by reason of the vent at the mountain-top, but in its agitations disclosed each moment sights more and more wonderful to our gaze.

The next day was spent by our party in descending the crater to the very limits of its seething fires, but I remained at the hotel. They were all provided with some offerings to Pele, the ancient goddess of fire, reverenced by the Hawaiian people. This custom is almost universal, even to the present day. Those born in foreign lands, tourists who scarcely know our ancient history, generally take with them to the brink of the lake some coin or other trinket which, for good luck, as the saying is, they cast into the lava. Our people, the native Hawaiians, have no money to throw away on such souvenirs of the past; but they carry wreaths of the pandanus flower, leis, made like those seen aboard the steamers at the departure of friends, necklaces, and garlands of nature’s ornaments, which are tossed by them into the angry waves of the basin.

As I have mentioned this incident, my thoughts have gone back to that paragraph wherein I wrote of the overthrow of the superstitious fears of the fire-goddess through the brave acts of my aunt, Queen Kapiolani, when she defied the power of the elements at this very spot.

So, to prevent misunderstanding now, perhaps it would be well to notice that this propitiation of the volcano’s wrath is now but a harmless sport, not by any means an act of worship, very much like the custom of hurling old shoes at the bride’s carriage, or sending off the newly wedded couple with showers of rice; usages which form a pleasant diversion in the most highly cultivated and educated communities.

After a day spent in watching the activity of the crater, the party returned to our hotel, weary, hungry, and ready to enjoy the refreshment and repose of which they were in need. One night more was spent at the volcano house of the olden time, and then we all started on our ride down the mountain for the city of Hilo.

The display had not diminished in extent nor in its strange, wild beauty. The lake in the crater was still boiling, and over Mokuaweoweo the location of the opening was easily distinguished by the brilliant glow of light. But turning our backs on these natural wonders, nature was perhaps more lovely in the charms by which she lined our pathway towards the sea; for this road is justly considered to be one of the most beautiful exhibitions of the scenery of the tropics in Hawaii, and our cavalcade passed between lines of verdure or flowers enchanting to the eye and fragrant to the sense; there were the bright blossoms of the lehua, both yellow and red varieties, and other plants or trees shading and pleasing each of us as we advanced. Although we did not arrive at our destination until about five that afternoon, and were quite fatigued with our long ride, yet it had been an excursion of great enjoyment, and I am sure no one of the company was other than satisfied with it.

The great increase in the lava flow which subsequently took place had not at this time threatened the peace of the city; so our return to our friends was made the signal for a round of social pleasures. A grand entertainment in honor of the visit of the heir to the throne was given by Mr. and Mrs. Luther Severance; and it afforded me much satisfaction to show to my California cousin some examples of the generous style of the hospitality of those days, in which those of foreign or of native birth vied with each other in a friendly rivalry of good things.

Judge F. S. Lyman was then lieutenant-governor of the island, and with his amiable wife showed us all the attention in his power; then there were Judge Akao and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Governor Kipi and their agreeable family. The family of Mr. D. H. Hitchcock, especially his wife and daughters, were also most kind and attentive to me and those who accompanied me.

If, in these reminiscences, I should fail to name those who have made such occasions pleasant, it must be accepted simply as an unintentional omission, the names I have given being but examples of that universal kindness received by me from all. Just as we were leaving our kind entertainers, Sir Thomas Hesketh arrived in the port on his own yacht for a visit to the island; he was accompanied by Hon. Samuel Parker, whom he had invited to be his guest during this excursion.

The regular steamer of passenger service between Hilo and Honolulu received me and my company for our return to Oahu, where we arrived in safety; and not long after my cousin, Miss Aldrich, took her departure for her home, with, I am sure, some very pleasant memories of the natural beauties and social pleasures of life on the Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaiʻi’s Story by Hawaiʻi’s Queen

Pele’s Hair – what is it?

by Leilehua Yuen

Lauoho-o-Pele, Pele’s hair. What an evocative name for this form of lava!

Strands of shimmering ʻ ehu (reddish-brown) hair can be seen scattered across the Kīlauea. Sometimes, especially after lava fountains, whole hanks of this hair can be found—festooned on branches or trapped against rocks where it has been blown by the winds. What creature would shed in such abundance?

This hair is not grown by a creature, but by our very island itself! This hair is volcanic glass, spun into hair-fine threads by the superheated gasses roiling from the throat of our volcano and blown across the landscape. One method of formation is when a gouts of molten lava separate into pieces, thin strands of lava stretching between them, lengthening into hair fine threads. Carried on the wind, they are so light, they have been found kilometers downwind of their source.

Beautiful and delicate, Pele’s hair often shatters when touched. The fine threads are sharper than needles, and can embed themselves in skin, causing the same itching, prickling sensation as commercial fiberglas. Lodged in the eyes, they are excruciating. It is best to leave them where they lie. The birds, however, know how to handle this gift of the volcanoes, and sometimes use it in their nests.

If you find your car or windows covered in Pele’s hair or volcanic ash, do not try to wipe it off. It will scratch whatever surface it is wiped across. Instead, add some dish soap to a bucket of water and toss that onto the car or window. The soap, a surfactant, will help the hair or ash to left from the surface. You can then use a water hose to wash it away.

Another interesting lava form is Waimaka-o-Pele, Pele’s tears. Sometimes found at the end of a strand of Pele’s hair, because they are so much heavier (though still very light) they tend to snap off.

Jim D. Griggs, HVO (USGS) staff photographer[1][2] – http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/images/pglossary/PeleTears.php

What is NOT Pele’s hair is the so-called “Spanish moss,” which is neither Spanish, a moss, nor Hawaiian. Known to botanists as Tillandsia usneoides, this bromeliad is actually a relative of the pineapple! (Please note that the pineapple also is not a Hawaiian plant!) It is native to southern portions of North America, Central America, and parts of South America.

One of the Native American names for it is Itla-okla, which translates to English as “tree hair.” It has numerous traditional uses, including medicinal. KLTV.com has an interesting article on Itla-okla.

Cumberland Island National Seashore NPS image

Living on a Volcanic Island – Filter Masks and Respirators for Hawai`i

Hawaiian volcanoes are fascinating, and their ease of access has made them important in the study of earth sciences. But for human health, we need to protect ourselves from some aspects of them.

Contrary to what the mass media would have you believe, we are not blowing up like Krakatoa. Most of Moku Hawaiʻi is perfectly fine, and the rest of the islands even more so.

As Hawaiians, we do not consider this a “disaster” or “destruction,” but, rather, the on-going building of the island by the elemental force, Pele. It is creation in all its glory, and we are privileged to be here where we can observe in relative safety.

Below, please find authoritative links to real information, instead of media hype, and explanations of the various types of filter masks and respirators.

The Islands of Hawaiʻi
The Islands of Hawaiʻi

Good Article from the San Francisco Chronicle:
Eruptions in Hawaii: What you need to know before traveling to the islands

Good article from Earther.com
Scientists fight volcano myths as Kīlauea erupts

For the most accurate current information, please visit the following sites.

Ignore the media that claims the volcano is blowing up, hurling truck-sized boulders into the air, and that locals are fleeing the islands. It just is not true:

Info on Vog:
https://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/vog-dashboard.htm

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes Observatory News:
https://volcanoes.usgs.gov/observatories/hvo/

Kīlauea Volcanic Hazards:
https://volcanoes.usgs.gov/volcanoes/kilauea/status.html

Asthma patients and others with respiratory issues:
http://mkwc.ifa.hawaii.edu/vmap/hysplit/animate.cgi?domain=bigis&variable=so2&ftype=ensmax01

How Halemaʻumaʻu works:
https://www.livescience.com/28192-how-hawaii-s-kilauea-volcano-works-infographic.html

Why Hawaiian volcanoes are not like Pacific Rim volcanoes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0tnqPmwWvk&feature=share

Protect yourself from volcanic fumes!

Our golden chow, Kaimalino, on a vog day, turns to Dad for comfort.
Rescued from the HOVE, our golden chow, Kaimalino, knows all about vog (volcanic smog). He’s been living with it for his entire six years! On a vog day, he turns to Dad for comfort.

On high-vog days, it’s a good idea to protect ourselves from the particulate matter and from the irritating and/or toxic fumes vented by the volcano. Some face masks are better at this than others.

Each mask is coded to tell you what it protects from, and how well it can do the job. Below, we de-code the codes.

Every type of face mask is made for a specific purpose. Using the wrong one only gives a false sense of security, and little to no actual protection. It’s always a balance between best airflow and best protection, so learn your masks!

Don’t risk getting sick as a dog. Choose the right mask or respirator for the right job!

Types of Masks

Surgical Masks


Common surgical masks, such as the ones above, are meant to catch your own body fluids, such as saliva and nasal discharge, when you cough or sneeze. They protect the people around you from any “bugs” you may have.

They are not designed to protect you from inhaling airborne bacteria, viruses and fine particles.

Surgical masks typically have two straps, one on each side, that hook over your ears. Some may come with one strap that goes above the ears.

Wear a surgical mask if you have a cold, flu, or cough when you are around other people. This is when sharing is NOT caring!

Surgical masks also are helpful in keeping your mucus membranes moist during air travel, helping prevent you from becoming ill from pathogens on the plane. We, of Kaʻahele Hawaiʻi, always pack a few in our carry-ons.

Surgical masks CANNOT provide adequate protection against fine particles present in smoke and haze!

Respirators

Respirators, also called particulate respirators, are more substantial in construction, and are designed to keep the wearer from inhaling dust, mold, other airborne particles, and/or fumes, vapors, or gases.

Good respirators will have one or two valves. These valves allow you to exhale CO2 (carbon dioxide), a natural byproduct of breathing. They are NOT filters. One way to tell you are building up too much CO2 is that you start yawning a lot. Just take a deep breath, then pull your mask away from your face and exhale hard. Seal the mask back up and breathe normally. 

If you will be in an area with significant S02 (sulphur dioxide), be sure to include goggles with a good seal to the skin to protect your eyes, or purchase a full-face respirator.

There are two main kinds of respirators, disposable and reusable. At the bottom of this post, you will find links to different types of respirators. As different respirators are recommended to us, we will add more. This list is only made based on anecdotal suggestions, and makes no claims or warranties of effectiveness.

Mask and Filter Cartridge Ratings

Respiratory Filters come in different ratings which tell you what and how much the respirator will filter out, and what kind of environment it is designed to be worn in.

The higher the rating, the greater percentage of stuff it will filter out. Be sure to pick a rating that is high enough to filter out what you need to. But, try to avoid going higher than you need. The higher the number the more difficult it is for air to pass through the filter, making breathing a bit more difficult and tiring. Sanding your new table before painting does not require the filtering capability needed for S02 and other gasses.

Generally, an N95 respirator will be cooler, and easier to breath through, than a P99 or P95 dust mask. But if you are dealing with volcanic ash and fumes, you’ll want to consider getting the best you can find.

Be sure to check the specs to learn how many hours of filtration you can get out of them. Most are around 40. Unless the instructs say you can, don’t try to blow them clean with an air gun or whatever. It won’t do much to clean them, and it will damage the fibers and their ability to filter out the bad stuff.

Respirator Rating Letter Class

  • N – Not oil resistant, indicates the mask removes particulate matter only.
  • R – Resistant to oil, indicates the mask will filter out some oil-based pollutants, as well as particulates.
  • P – Oil Proof, indicates the mask will filter out most of the oil-based pollutants.
  • CActivated Carbon, indicates the mask helps with things like ozone and SO2. Notice, we say, “helps.” Don’t put one of these on and go traipsing into a hazardous area. Instead, think of it as a rescue device. If you get trapped in a hazardous area, this might help clean the air long enough for you to get out.
  • V – Valve, indicates the mask has a nifty valve which allows you to get rid of CO2 more easily.

Respirator Rating Number Class

  • 95 – Removes 95% of all particles that are at least 0.3 microns in diameter. The N95 respirator is the most common of the seven types of particulate filtering facepiece respirators.
  • 99 – Removes 99% of particles that are at least 0.3 microns in diameter
  • 100 – Removes 99.97% of all particles that are 0.3 microns in diameter or larger. HE or HEPA quality filter.

Disposable Respirators

Disposable respirators are masks will have the word “NIOSH,” and either “N95“, “N99“, “N100“, “R95“, “R99“, “R100“, “P95“, “P99” or “P100” printed on them.

NIOSH stands for the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health. NIOSH is a U.S. federal agency which  conducts research and makes recommendations for the prevention of work-related injury and illness. A product that bears the word NIOSH means it meets certain standard recommended by the agency.

N95 Respirators

N99 Respirators

N100 Respirator

R95 Respirator

Reusable Respirators

Reusable respirators have replaceable filters. We will add more links as we get more feedback.

N99CV

Vogmask – This stylish respirator was designed for people who live in high-smog areas, need to protect themselves, and want to look good. Runs US$25-$35. This is the most comfortable respirator we have found. It is washable if you are careful. Instructions are in the box.

R99 Respirator