Naniloa Hotel kapa display designed by Leilehua Yuen

Kapa – The Fabric of Hawaiʻi

Kapa is a vegetable felt made by fermenting and beating the bast of the wauke (paper mulberry) or other plants.

Leilehua Yuen at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau, using ʻohe kāpala to decorate a malo. Leilehua trained in kapa making under kupuna Aunty Carla Freitas, who inspired and trained many of today’s kapa makers. Mid 1990s.

The legendary origins of kapa

At one time, the people of Hawai`i nei had only leaves of mai`a (banana), hala (pandanus) and kī (cordyline) with which to clothe themselves. At this time, a man named Maikoha lived in Nu`uanu Valley at Pu`iwa, beside the waters of a stream. Maikoha had two daughters, Lauhuiki and La`ahana who were hard working and obedient. The three lived for many years, planting and farming beside the stream, catching river shrimps to eat with their vegetables, and trading with the neighbors when they wanted fish from the sea. Eventually Maikoha became old and knew he would soon die. He told his daughters to bury him beside the stream, and that soon after his burial a plant would grow from his body, and this plant would be useful to them. 

The young women followed his instructions, and soon a plant did grow. Their father came to them in dreams and taught them to strip the bark and pound it into large sheets which could be fashioned conveniently into clothing and coverings. They learned to take the sap of plants and make beautifully colored dyes to decorate this new kind of garment. This new fabric could be worn in many ways, wrapped and twisted, gathered and ruffled, dyed different colors, and patterned beautifully. When others saw it, they admired ts beauty and versatility. They traded for the new fabric, and they asked to be taught how to make it, and they found even more ways to wear it. Fashion had come to Hawai`i nei.

Kapa by Leilehua Yuen
Kapa by Leilehua Yuen
click here to purchase fabric with this kapa design.
Jessica Yuen, daughter of Leilehua, also trained with Aunty Carla Freitas in kapa making.
Lole (clothing) of kapa made by Leilehua Yuen. Kapa pāʻū (skirt) and kīhei (shawl) of beaten wauke. Lei lāʻī (tī leaf) and lei hua hala (pandanus key).
Kapa by Leilehua Yuen, backlit to show the watermarking left by the ʻie kūkū, the beater.
ʻOhe kāpala, bamboo stamps used to make designs on kapa.
Jessica Yuen and Leilehua Yuen Beating kapa at Amy B.H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden, about 1995
Leilehua Yuen demonstrating kapa making at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau in the 1990s.
Two school students join Leilehua in kapa making at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau.
Two school students join Leilehua in kapa making at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau.
“Pāʻū o Hiʻiakaikapuaʻenaʻena”
3′ by 4′ kapa wall hanging depicting plants used in Hawaiian medicine. Painting was done using traditional Hawaiian dyes: Hili kukui (candlenut sap), ʻōlena (turmeric), and paʻu (soot). Now in private collection.
An ʻulīʻulī (gourd hula rattle) with a kapa cover. By Leilehua Yuen
A bedcover which takes inspiration from the kapa gifted to Capt. Cook during his stay at Waimea, Kauaʻi. Leilehua says, “I am especially inspired by the kapa from the old Leverian collection, because they are from the same area many of my ancestors were from. It is possible that my own kūpuna wahine were among those who made the kapa which were gifted to Cook.”